Driving in Cambodia

Sieam Reap Temple 

When I was Denied Land Entry at Mayanmar border from Thailand earlier and then at Laos-Thailand border too, I got frustrated. But since I had Cambodia e-visa,  I thought I should give a try and enter Cambodia from Thailand. (Reason of denial for Myanmar:- No land crossing for foreign passport holder since 15 May 2023 and for Laos:- I can enter but no bike allowed without written permission for less then 350 CC engine capacity. They showed me some permission letter examples to contact for permission, I am sharing below if anyone need)

Cambodia visa can be applied online and usually it comes within three days (So was Laos Visa, which came on second day).

In Cambodia e-visa, they clearly mention that ports of the entry for the e-visa is valid. So that's a good thing. I checked that Krong Poi Pet entry was on the list.

I drove 550 kilometers to Poi pet Land border from Thailand-Laos border (Nong Khai, wonderful town, I will write in Thailand blog)

My Cambodia Driving map ( 4 days , 1000 km roughly)

Thailand Exit:

As I was coming out from Thailand, they checked my bike papers and other things. I didn't prepare or read on net for this as usual. This time again I had to go back for photocopy of driving license. Thai Insurance, Passport, and bike papers. No lesson learnt😆.

Funny thing was that nobody at the entry of the Thailand asked me for the Thailand insurance which I bought in Malaysia (for three months in 35 baht as I saw on the road "Thai Insurance") but at the exit, they asked for it.

I saw the list of the requirement to enter the Cambodia with the vehicle included the international driving license and I didn't have it. So I thought they are going to deny me the entry but somehow they didn't check the Malaysian license thoroughly or it seems they just need any licence. On the Land borders, the customs officers hardly speak English, how would they check English document? Only Immigration officers  speaks English. That's my experience from more than 15 Entry Exit through land-borders but luck should be on your side (Ha ha ha).

Cambodia entry:

Cambodia entry was not so bad again but I didn't prepare for anything and I even thought that I will take the print of e-visa when it will be confirmed that I am going to enter (Although it was clearly mention on e-visa to take the 2 printout for submitting at the check point. So lazy.).

Standing in the que for immigration, I saw that they are asking everybody for the visa printout so I came out of the que and asked an officer sitting there for the visa printout. The immigration officer said "okay ,we will help you" and he called a younger officer to help me with the print. I was happy. The guy gave me the print. In fact my Thailand SIM not working at the border so he gave me the Wi-Fi password. But after that he suddenly asked for 100 Thai Baht for the printing which is around 250 rupees. I was shocked. I thought they were friendly. But it's Ok. It was my mistake and shouldn't backout. So I gave him the money.

While I was again in the que for the immigration and talking to this fellow English driver, two officers asked me out.  I thought they are going to take me for an interview sort of thing which I faced earlier in Iran-Azerbaijan border and in Brazil.

I waited outside the room and I met a Black guy (No respect for black people also like Asian, I thought). He was also waiting just like me. After 15 minutes of waiting, they asked me inside and there was a young officer asking questions and within five minutes I understood that this is not a really serious interview to judge the person but something else.

He was asking random, non-connected questions and was more concerned on money part (I knew all countries want to ensure that one should have sufficient money to support himself but I sensed it was different). I told him that since I'm driving, I do not keep much of the cash (Although I had plenty hidden in my bag 😆). 

After 10-15 minutes of questioning, he again asked "how much money do I have in the pocket" (now my doubt was confirmed about the seriousness of this Interview). I showed him  my wallet with few Malaysian ringgits only. So he finally gave up and stood with me to leave the room but then he asked very politely for a 'tip'.

Ha ha ha. Okay. No Issue. I gave him like 100 MYR and now I became a VIP (no que, direct stamping) on the immigration booth.

As I said, Before having been taken to this immigration office, I met another English motorcycle driver. I thought, okay,  other people usually come prepared so I can take some help from him and he showed me the window where I could go for the getting bike import papers. I went there. The English guy told that the officer there is very friendly. I said, "yeah thanks I understood" and thought in my mind that they might be friendly to the English men but may not be the same for me.

But that officer turned out to be really good. He asked me if I was a friend with the English guy. I didn't lie. I said "yeah, he's my friend but we just met and he just helping me". He said "okay, it will take another half an hour because there is a online portal where it is needed to fill the details of  the bike before coming but he will do it for me and. Meanwhile I should go for passport stamping and return after 30 minutes" .

When I came back from the immigration to the customs window again the bike import papers were ready (Condition, 15 days validity and exit through this border only).

 I was really thankful to that Officer.

Driving in Cambodia: 

It was really different world than Thailand. I didn't even know which side of the driving is here. I looked around to understand driving side and 'Oh my god' came out from my mouth (Right hand side drive). Although I had driven a lot in the right hand side but it was like five years ago and now this sudden change in driving side was very uncomfortable. I drove like a timid dog.

Anyway first thing first :  Currency and the SIM.

I had to change some money at the border. Cambodia currency is very devalued, hence the notes are big but valuse is low; e.g 0.5 liter water bottle for 1000 Note (Only Dollar can be  changed at this border. My Indian Rupees or Malaysian Ringgit was just piece of paper there.

After having some money, I went to the shop for the mobile sim. Interesting thing was that shopkeeper didn't bother for my passport. Within 5 minutes he came up with my connection sim and it was really fast like buying a water bottle.

I started to drive but I didn't now where to head. I recalled the English guy at the immigration, asking me where you want to go and since I didn't know anything I said "capital' and then I asked about his plans and he showed me "Siam reap". There are some ancient temples he told.

I checked on map. It was150 km far and it was 6 PM already. I didn't want to drive at the night. I just looked at the Google map and got a hotel in a village.

It was a good cheap hotel and the caretaker was really honest. In the night I went to shop for food. Again I didn't know which language they followed there, so I showed the Google translation for making veg rice and She said "no Thai language". I handed my mobile phone over to her. She scrolled down to 'Khmer'  which is the language in Cambodia.

In the morning I started for Siam reap.  When I reached there, I was shocked with the price of the ticket. It was 37 dollar for one day and $64 for 3 day ticket. There is a website to buy the ticket online. The ticket checkers wanted to help me like taking me to ticket office and meanwhile take care of my bike etc. But I knew they will ask big money for this favor at the end (As the first impression is the last impression which I got on the border immigration) so I thanked them and said, "please give me the online website and I will book myself". After they understood that this guy will not give anything like other tourists so they gave me the website address.

I entered in the temple campus and I understood why there is also a "three days validity ticket".

When I go inside I understand this big complex is spread in around 10-20 kilometers and have ten - twenties temples ( I visited only 5) and the biggest temple is the banyan temple who is also (as I later found out) is on the Cambodia flag. 

Isn't this good to come unprepared and whatever you get is a big surprise and thrills you rather than read a lot and than come with expectations and compare with your buildup image with the reality like an approver.

These all temples are the part of Anghora period which from 10th century to 17th century approx. This temple complex which was attacked many times. The attackers didn't destroy the temple but left a mark on these temples especially the Banyan temple like it was initially Bhramin temple and it was later Oriented to the Buddhism (mahayan) and again converted to the Brahmin temple and then later on Chinese came. They also scripted the walls of the temple to show they were here but the good thing was that nobody destroyed the temples after they got here.

It's a must go place. UNESCO World Heritage site and thank God without planning, God routed me here.

Usually I search the web for most important things in the country after entering the country but this time I didn't do that for Cambodia because I thought I may not be able to enter but thank God I was here.

(You don't always need a soil to grow. Sometime life can flourish on top of stones like above)

I didn't stay in Siem reap that night and after driving for 200 km. I stayed in a big village house with big farm.

The Google showed it a guest house but when I got there, the lady couldn't read the language in mobile translation. But she smart enough to take the money I offered and I kind of stuck there. But she was not confirming rent. What I understood that owner was sleeping in the house and she is just a cleaning lady, and he will confirm the rent later. but that was okay for me. 

It was really hot there but 500 Indian rupees rent. Not bad. Okay. No, Not okay. It won't be so cheap next time. I struggled the whole night with heat though I was able to get vegetarian rice in the nearby shop. It was good.

Next day I started for the capital. First time I was given free food, not by the shopkeeper but follow customers and I remember when one of my Japanese fellow I met in Argentina told me that how he used to get this type of love in Pakistan and Iran. I got Envy with him at that time but when I got this free food, somehow I didn't like this.

One funny incident happened when I was taking the food.

As I learned from my previous trips that saying "vegetarian or no meat" is not sufficient, you have to specify like  "No meat, No chicken, No fish" in the translator (Because in many country meat is only red meat and chicken and fish are not really meat).

I used to kept a handy translation of this to show everywhere. the same translator I showed to the shop girl "no chicken no meat, no fish and no egg" and waited on the table.

After 10 minutes, I went to the girl and I saw she's putting something in my bread. I said No. She said (in her mobile translator) "Pork". Oh my god. I showed her my mobile that I told you that "no chicken no meat no fish". She showed me her mobile angrily, "yes, it's only pork"😛.

I understood. Yeah, I didn't add the pork, so it wasn't really her fault. It's very difficult for the people to understand. They can't believe that you are vegetarian and you don't eat all of these items and most of the people smile and I know what they think. This was the restaurant where the customer pay for me and also ask me to have one more sandwich like "you know you have to eat it also". We didn't understand the language but the guy wanted to be a good host for me, representing his country.

Anyway, when I reached the capital (Phnom Penh), I thought there  must be some Indian restaurant and I finally found one. Still I was little bit doubting about the taste of the food but when I found Indian guy there and I inquired about the cook he said "he's from the Uttarkhand" and I felt relived. Got a good food for two days after so many days. 

Important thing: Dollar are preferable and legal currency for buying anything in Cambodia. So the more Dollars you bring with you, the better.

The driving part : Right-hand side drive, but rough driving like India (still less dangerous than India). For an Indian, you may not need to use the conscious mind. your subconscious mind will do that in Cambodia but the problem was that the right-hand drive. Only on the third day, I got somewhat comfortable with that driving. Roads are not so good like  Malaysia or Thailand. I saw one small accident on the road but thankfully the no one had got hurt.

I drove around thousand kilometers. There plenty of shops along the road and people looked really poor. I always buy from the small shops just to help the community and not to make the rich guy richer by going to the big stores, but people on these shops in Cambodia are not so honest like in Malaysia or in Thailand (May be because of poverty).

One thing that I liked most about Cambodia is that the air has the smell of Soil,  like India. I didn't go much deeper into the Cambodia forest side because I was, you know, exhausted with my trip.  I would come for that the next time.

Coming back to Thailand Crossing Cambodia - Thailand border (Poi Pot) :

This time it was like 15 minute job because I reached at 6 pm so it was like closing time. There was no que at all.

I gave back the Import (bike paper prepared at the time of entry) on the same window and he said, " Ok Go". They gave me15 days permission for the bike and return through this port only although e-visa for was for the 30 days. 

I went to immigration office for exit stamp. He asked me again for visa (strange) and then asked for 200 Thai Baht in the same serious tone. I said in the same tone as I  answered his other questions that I don't have any. He stamped the passport and said "Ok, Go". I think he trying to trap me but I didn't get caught as now I was exiting not entering.

Thailand border: They asked me again for photocopies. And again I didn't have the photocopies. The guy asked me to go back and get the photocopies. I got the photocopies in the zero area ( Area between two posts). The guy there was also trying to ask some money from me but I think he was bit confused (Should he ask or not), so i didn't give him anything.

At the Malaysia-Thailand border, it was so professional, so quick, really really good.

Anyway, I gave border guy around 100 or 200 rupees equivalent of Cambodian money (I didn't count), just grabbed some money from purse and handed him because I thought I am not going to use them.

He gave me a favor of giving 10 Baht to deposit at the immigration counter in lieu of this donation. (No receipt though).

Again Bike Import paper ( but it was like 10 min job this time because I showed them old paper picture in my mobile) and  I entered Thailand, stayed at the border that night. So that's all about my Cambodia drive. It was not extensive.  Maybe next time.