Motorcycle driving tour in India

Just biking, Delhi to Kanyakumari and back till Jaipur via Lucknow, Ranchi, Vizag, Chennai and Mumbai.

 

(Note: Just biking does not allow to visit any touristic place, roam-around in city or do any other touristic activity 😆, it’s Just you, highway and trucks , A lots of trucks😝 )

 

My Map

 

 

Trip Summary: Approx. 6900 Km and 33 Days 

 

Total Expenses 600 $ for 33 days (20 USD per day)

 

Cost Break up:

 

Fuel: 300 $ (Bike fuel economy: 35 km / liter, Thunderbird 350CC)

 

Hotel / Stay: 120 $, Food: 70 $, Other Expenses: 110 $, Bike Maintenance : 20 $

 

(Food bill is usually between 0.5 $ to 1.5 $ at roadside Restaurants (Dhaba). My most costly one-time meal was 2.2 $ in Kerala)

 

Health Issues: Pain in chest: - Started in Lucknow and remained till Ranchi, I even discussed this with my friend in Ranchi, he said we can go to doctor tomorrow. But I thought who has time for it, let it be here in my chest and suddenly the next day it was gone.

Pain on Knees and Ankles due to continuous riding posture for so many days, I guess. I used to straight up by leg frequently during driving. It remained for 10-12 days, started in right knee first and started in left knee later and then in both foot ankles one by one.

Backache due to putting laptop bag on my shoulder during the whole ride, I learn a trick to abide it temporarily by putting one hand behind the back (This I saw and learn from two-wheeler drivers in east Godavari region). 

Stomach: it remains healthy and well-functioning because I never fed it enough and it’s the key to remain healthy during the trip.  

Rest other pains etc. - I never gave them proper attention. I guess they all came and went because of my disrespect full nature to them. They might be saying that “OK you are strong enough now, but we will be back, will be back when you would be weak, weak mentally”. Who cares.

 

Blog Diary for daily details: 

Thursday, December 9, 2010 

Day 1: New Delhi to Bareilly, Uttar Pradesh, India 

Lying on bed and awaken from last 2 hour in the morning, just thinking should I go or not to go?

At Last, I decide to attend friend’s marriage at Bareilly, Uttar Pradesh. I made a promise to her that I will come, and I always want to keep my promises. So I started at 11.00 am on my 7-year-old Thunderbird. 

Highway NH 24 was good but because I got engine serviced (Crank-shaft replacement) just 3 days before, my mechanic advised to drive at max. 50-60 kmph. So, I drove slowly. 

Once you are 200 Km away from Delhi, the world around you would be much better in terms of behavior of people. I don’t know whether it's Delhi's effect or Metro city affect that makes people of Delhi insensitive. I stopped by one Dhaba (food joint on roadside which has almost all facility for truck driver or a poor traveler like me), got Nature's call and went-in a so-called washroom, so filthy that one needs a lot of courage to use that one and I am sure most of the readers will discard that, But I must use it).

Then I had my lunch. I also gave the Dhaba owner, the tomato and other vegetables which I packed from home because somehow, I sense that it would be long before I return to home and these vegetables would be wasted if not taken away along with me (I guess that is what you call "Sixth Sense").

I had a wish to go to the farthest end of India i.e., Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu but hadn't planned for it. By the way if I plan anything, it hardly gets executed so I prefer to do "Extempore" (The only thing I keep ready is my Traveling bag and myself 'Ready to go in 10 minutes'). 

On the way, I do remember one place (a small town) near Moradabad, where I found around 10 shops of Gulab-Jamun (An Indian sweet-dish) with same name and everybody claiming that their shop is the original one by putting different convincing words on their shop’s signboard along with that same "name". It was funny to see how people start exploiting one shop’s credibility build in years with hardship and honesty.

At 6 PM, I read the Sign Board " Jari nagri Bareli me aap ka swagat hai”, I didn’t know Bareli is also known as "Jari nagari". I know Bareli because of its famous kite business, and I used to fly kites in my childhood and we always wish to have enough money to buy costlier Bareli kites and Manjha (The thread) with our limited budget. There is another famous old Hindi song " Jhoomka gira re, barelli ke bazar me".

Day Summary: From Delhi to Bareli Distance (Km) 250 Route NH 24 via Moradabad 

 And it was pleasant weather.

 

Saturday, December 11, 2010 

Day 2 & 3 Bareli to Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh 

Day 2

I spent two days in Bareli city. It’s Just like any other north Indian city except downtown which looks quite historic and old. I would really like to come here again and live life @ Bareli for one week. I ate Poori chole (very delicious) on roadside and got a quick checkup of my bike at "Friend Auto care" near GRM Inter college, Nainital Road, Bareli (mobile: -91-96347 86545). Good Person and cheap too. I am posting full address in case you are passing by and need a Bullet mechanic. 

Day 3 

I was just thinking where to go after attending the marriage for last two days and then I recalled meeting one of my old friend in Ranchi, Jharkhand. I have made a promise to him also that I will come to meet him at his place last month and I also hadn't met him since last ten years. I wanted to meet him, so I got a heading and I started. 

I started at 1 PM and planned to reach Lucknow. On route I was chased by 2 people on motorcycle, and they stopped me. They said they were Police (but no uniform), wanted to check My bike papers (I had forgotten to keep original papers with me). All I had was a filthy photocopy of my bike registration only, no Insurance, no pollution certificate. Even my bike didn’t have any lock, but I believe in India's system. India is run by his Father of nation (Not Mahatma Gandhi but a piece of paper which has his picture on it called Indian currency and in short I call it Bapu). India has a high ranking in corruption, so if you have money, you can get out of everything. I am especially proud to be an Indian in this regard and I have kept in my mind a separate budget for it during my travels. 

They wanted some money actually. I asked them to take me to their post. They guided me to nearby police check post. The Police inspector was a young fellow, looked nice to me. He asked me a few questions and simply let me go (unexpected behavior of a police person). This was a favor to me. I am thankful to the man. 

I reached Lucknow at 7 PM and searching for a cheap stay was a pain. All you see is lots of nursing home looks like hotels in city outskirts. This must be good business nowadays, I guess. So, one has to drive towards city center for my budget hotels or what we called " Dharmshalas".

Day Summary: From Bareli To Lucknow 250 Km on NH 24 Via Shahjahanpur, Sitapur, SH 25 

Hotel Rent 350/- Indian Rupees (very bad lodge, but its big city and I can afford only Cheap) 

 

Sunday, December 12, 2010 

Day 4 Lucknow to Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh 

I started around 10 AM and again weather was pleasant. The must see on road was The Weekly Village Market on roadside around 100 km far from Lucknow. It was Sunday and you can really see the life of rural Uttar Pradesh exactly as described by the famous Hindi writer “Munshi Premchand”.

I was surprised to see that because he wrote around a century ago and in this age of communication, there is still most of the scenes and situation are come out from his books (Villages, Market, ponds, River and People).

Life changes here really slow. It was somehow fascinating for me since I read him, to live in any such village and see the life and people. A Must see if you want to see life of North India. I will come back here to live once or at least cover a story. It was really a feeling , not an experience. 

Day Summary: From Lucknow to Varanasi 300 km on Route NH 56 Road, Room Rent $ 7 (300 INR) 

 

Monday, December 13, 2010 

Day 5 Varanasi to Bodh Gaya 

Started at 10 am, I skipped to see Varanasi temples and The Ganga (I believe the God is with me most of the time so why waste time and lets hit the road). 

I hit NH 2 again after 4 years, first time I traveled from Kharagpur to Jaipur and in that 1800 Km journey I drove 1500 Km approx on NH 2 only. It was not safe for commuters in those days due to frequent robberies while crossing Sherghati (Near Dobhi) because of great leadership's law and order situation in Bihar that time. Even Government had put sign boards like "Do Not stop even if you heard the sound of a Tire burst" (that was a trick, used by robbers for stopping the vehicle).

Thing are changed now and it’s now my 6th tour more than 1000 Km on Indian Roads, so I gave myself a challenge by stopping in that very forest and drink a beer and I did it. It really felt good to come out of your own fear without any help. 

ATM closes by evening: - When I asked in a town "Dobhi" about where is an ATM, people were surprised. Because it was only me there who thought that ATMs use to be open 24 hours. For them, it closes when bank branch closes and that was the reality of that town.

So now I must deviate my route towards Ranchi and go to Bodh Gaya for ATM and I stayed in my costliest lodge (10 $ per night) there at night because it’s famous tourist place and attracts lots of foreign tourist who study Buddhism. 

Day Summary: From Varanasi to Bodhgaya, 250 Km on Route NH 2 & NH 83, Hotel Rent 450 (tourist place) 

 

Tuesday, December 14, 2010 

 Day 6: Bodh Gaya to Ranchi (Kanke)

 I started from Bodh Gaya at 10 AM. There must have been some special religious occasion here because I saw a good gathering of Monks in their Maroon color dress and lots of foreigners also on roads and around the temples, but I didn't stop for that. I am just a biker rather than a tourist. But I like simple living of village people and peace here. 

 I reached at Barhi, left NH 2 and start on NH 33 towards Hazaribagh. There some road work was going on for widening the Highway up to 4 lanes otherwise its good with some dense forests and beautiful rivers. I stopped twice till I reached Ranchi (Kanke). One Dhaba was run by 2 very beautiful sisters along with their old father. It was surprising especially for a guy from Rajasthan. I saw a dream of wife and sister-in-law (Saali) there. 

Special Breakfast Item is Litty-chokha (it’s a Litti- which is ball shape stuff, baked and made of wheat and other food grains, delicious with boiled and mashed potatoes with local spices called “Chokha”). Everybody passing by this region should try it. It’s popular in western UP, Bihar and Jharkhand. Cost .05 $ per Litty and usually 2 is enough as breakfast. 

 I took a short-cut road to reach Kanke via Pithauriya from Ramgarh and the whole road was so bad due to work going on it and diversion at every 100 m (I don't know what strategy Highway authority formulate to make a road so that it inherently possesses rider's nightmare or maybe they literally want to stop the traffic by putting so much hurdle on It. God Bless them. 

Must See: - I remember the Ghat road between Pithuriya to Kanke and Kanke Dam. It was really beautiful and calm like a virgin, untouched by any kind of urbanization or tourism. 

Day Summary: Bodhgaya to Ranchi (Kanke), 250KM via NH 2 / NH 83 / NH 33 

 

Thursday, December 16, 2010 

Day 7 and 8 in Ranchi with Old Friend after a Decade 

Ranchi (Kanke) 

Village Life in Jharkhand: And at Last, coming out of hills, I saw my friend after 10 years, standing on road, waiting for me. There was weekly market on road. His village was very beautiful, or I would say exactly the same with the picture I have made in mind about the villages along the highway in this region. 

A Pond, A tree -tilting on pond, A temple, lots of farms, and most interesting the people and their gossips. He introduced me most of the villagers and strange thing is that I meet with all of them first time, most of them asked me to stay for at least one week. I think that's why we create a word" Hospitality". 

Taadi (Famous liquor): -He introduced me to the different types of local beverages and I liked the "Taadi" most. He also told me how to identify a Taadi-seller on roadside. It’s real cheap (0.1 $ for about 200 ml) and normally 600-1000 ml is sufficient to get a "Suroor"(cloud number 7). Taadi became my favorite drink since then and it was readily available on all East Cost of India on Highway (NH 5) of Andhra Pradesh. The best part of it is that it is usually sold and served by Women. 

 

Saturday, December 18, 2010 

Day 9 & 10 Ranchi to Rourkela, Orissa 

So, after living Village life at Friends house for three days, I decided to move ahead. I decided to go Visakhapatnam, Andhra Pradesh because name of this city is quite fascinating to me since my childhood, and this is more than sufficient reason for me to go anywhere. 

After saying Goodbye to my friend and his family in the morning at 11 pm, I had to decide route between NH 23 and NH 33. I was about to doing a coin toss. Then I realized that there must be some respectable reason to choose a route. I thought and thought and thought and then I got one reason that 23 is my day of birth so I should go via NH 23. (It is not funny for me to choose something between equals, specially while living such a gravity free life since last 3 months). 

This region of India is quite rural and natural, quite opposite to the NH 17 in Kerala which is very urbanized. I liked it here. 

Taadiwali: As soon as I left Ranchi, I was waiting for the taadi seller (As per my recent knowledge from my friend) and very soon I found too many, all are young females and it's really good to get your taadi from them. They used to smile and laugh on my so-called polished behavior from an urban society. The route was quite good with lots of beautiful scenery and road was good. Food cost was really low here. I ate vegetarian and I get stuffed only with 0.4 $ and I guess that whole day required 1 $ only. After entering Orissa state, I mostly drove on town areas. I reached Rourkela at 8 pm and got one lodge (I usually pick the first one on route and never go to check another one) and Old monk. Good night. 

Next day I stayed at the lodge only for whole day. Just me and my drink. Came out once only for some breakfast and for a sidewalk on local market out of the city, else listening the gazals by Ghulam Ali and Mehndi Hassan. 

Some part of the one I like most 

"Aapni dhun me rehta hun, main bhi tere jaisa hun (Just living in my own, I am just like you) 

"O peechli Rut ke saathi, abke baras main tanha hun, (hey last season’s mate, this year I am alone) 

Aati rut mujhe royegi.... Jaati rut ka jhonka hun, (the coming season will be remorseful for me because I am a gone season’s wind) 

Apni lehar hai apna rog.... DARIYA HUN PAR PYASA HUN (my own wave and my own psyche, I am River but thirsty) -A famous ghazal sung by "Chote Ghulam ali sahib".  

Day Summary: Ranchi (Kanke) To Rourkela on Km 250 on NH 23 Hotel Rent 6$ 

 

Sunday, December 19, 2010 

Day 11: Rourkela to Cuttack 

 So, I came out of my blues and started on the route. Wanted to divert through Dantewada (because it presents affiliation with Maoists (rebels in this region) but anyhow managed to suppress my desire for adventure. 

I do remember that I gave a lift to a Paramilitary force person and it was suggested by him to not to give lift to stranger and not to drive in forest at night (he suddenly realized that I did the same by giving him a lift, so he corrected himself that I should give lift first by judging the person and there is a catch now. How can I judge a person, standing road side, asking for lift in 1-2 second while driving at a speed of 70-80 kmph. Anyway, he was just deputed in this region since last 4 month and we had an insightful discussion over the law-and-order situation in the region, which is now most burning situation in India, more than the militancy in Kashmir. 

 Day Summary: Rourkela to Cuttack ,300 km on NH 23, NH 23 A, NH 6, NH 42, NH 5 

Room Rent 300 

Monday, December 20, 2010 

 Day 12: Cuttack to Berhampur, Orissa  

I started at the same time (10 am at least), passed through Bhubaneswar and there is side cut for Puri. I have been to Bhubaneswar and Puri before.

I remember, the must watch for this region when I visited there with my parents were-

1. Very Clean beaches (like the one of windows wallpaper) seen on road from Puri to Konark sun temple. 

2. The Art gallery of Puri temple, where saga of Lord Krishna and Radha love has sung through painting series (I recalled Movie Raincoat’s song’s lyrics, one of the most soulful). 

3. Lingaraj Temple (the same as described in various fiction of Jay Shankar Prasad, Yashpal and Acharya Chatursen, written on Maurya dynasty time frame). In my childhood, I used to get diffuse into the scene of the fiction and when I saw the Temple, I felt that I am awaken from dream after 20 years. 

Anyway, I did have plan to go Vizag (Another name for Vishakhapatnam), so I bypassed the city. Now I had to get my bike serviced because after the first inspection in Bareli it had been more than 2000 km and I hadn’t checked the oil level since then. To save the money I decided to catch local bullet mechanic but couldn’t find one till I came very far from the city on highway. So, I bought engine oil and set with a local mechanic for 100CC bikes and did my servicing.

When I opened the Cap of oil tank, I found that the oil level measuring rod had fallen in the engine. I was shocked. I was thankful to God that it has not created any problem so far but I was afraid for my further journey. I called my mechanic in Delhi and told him about it, his first words are “Tumharri to taqdeer hi lagi padi hai (you have been screwed since a long).

He assured that it won’t disturb the engine. When I poured the used oil in the pan, I saw that it had the small rod meshed by heavy crank shaft and become all most powder. Now I was happy that threat has gone. The bike servicing steps included checking air filter, oil filter, oil replacement and breaks and levers. It took 2 hours and 1.2 $ tip to the mechanic (I guess he would be happy in 0.75$, but I was very rich by heart). It was night very soon and I decide to halt on this small town of Orissa. 

After searching for 2 hours, I couldn’t get a single room (next day, it was a big entrance test across the state, so everything was filled by young aspirants). I did not have much problem as I had bike and I could even cross the state, but I was so tired and lucky enough to get the cheapest room of my whole trip at 1 .1$ (50 rs) only. Will tell you about the town tomorrow, good night and happy Old Monk. 

Day Summary: Cuttack to Berhampur, Orissa, 250 km on NH 5, Room Rent 1.1 $ per day 

 

Tuesday, December 21, 2010 

 Day 13: Berhampur to Visakhapatnam, Andhra Pradesh 

I have one friend from Near Berhampur, but she is married now so I escaped meeting her, otherwise I would have an insight in to the Oria life (which can be best seen with a local person telling it).

This state still hosts abject poverty, more than the Jharkhand. How this does not change while India changes too much in last 10 year in front of my eyes. Old ladies wear only sari to cover her whole body and men do not cover upper body. Funny part is that, so called golden quadrilateral highway (the pride of India in terms of road transportation) is still not completed in this region and is used by farmers to beat Dhaan on the road and get rice out of it. They use whole incomplete patches of 2 lane of this 4-lane highway, and it looks more like that I am driving through rice-field with a solid base underneath me. (All beautiful women manage to cover all of it which you want to see).

In the afternoon, I started looking for Taadi-waali and it’s been quite long (around 50 Km) since I last saw them and very soon, I got many. I chose one with no other customer. We didn’t understand each other’s language but that is what is my specialty, to make anybody understand. She kept pouring Taadi in my glass and I kept drinking. I think I drank around 1 liter and then she packed 1 liter for route too. I guess she misunderstood that I am asking her to come along with me to Vizag. (And she was not angry but feeling shying and saying 'No' (this east Godavari region, I love it here).

Anyway, I start again after saying lovely goodbye to her and within 10 km I puked the whole 1 liter in 5 sec. It was just like I was supposed to carry that taadi for 10 km in my stomach.

I reached Vizag quite early. I went straight to the railway station. I found it costly. I got a quick checkup of bike. The mechanic didn’t really know much.

 The bell boy of the hotel was greedy. 

Day Summary: Behrampur to Visakhapatnam, Andhra Pradesh 300KM on NH 5 

 

Friday, December 24, 2010 

Day 14 & 15: Visakhapatnam, Andhra Pradesh to Kakinada, Andhra Pradesh 

22-Dec 

Again, I just started the tour, ignoring the town and I was a bit late. I planned for visiting Peddupurum but it got dark, so I planned to stay nearby at night and then visit the place next morning (just like ‘go through’) and then go further on my way to Kanyakumari. I reached Kakinada at around 8 PM and searched for a cheap lodge near bus stand. 

 

Day Summary: Visakhapatnam, Andhra Pradesh to Kakinada 180 km via NH 5 and NH 214 

Hotel Rent 150 

 

Day 15

Stayed in Kakinada and nobody could feel unwanted here if he has at least some money. These two-day blogs have been censored. Please visit my blogs on WSA. If you don’t know what WSA is, message me. 

'LIFE IS NOT THE MOMENT YOU BREATH, IT’S THE MOMENT WHICH TAKES YOUR BREATH AWAY' - HITCH MOVIE

 

 Saturday, December 25, 2010 

 Day 16: Kakinada to Chilakaluripet, Andhra Pradesh 

Too exhausted but refreshed (you know when it could be possible) and with a hope to revisit the region again, I started on the highway and my goodness, I realized that I missed Peddapuram. But I did not turn back as I thought it could be a driving force for me to come back here again in future. 

Then I left NH 5 and took a shortcut as I had seen in the map and suggested by people. It was really a bad road but I found some interesting farm labors asking me for lift (Obviously female). I cross very long bridge on Rajahmundry. I didn’t enter the town. I wish I could have a job of being traveler like discovery channel programs. 

It is 16th day of my trip and I have covered almost 3000 km. I know I am slow but I have no hurry to reach anywhere. Neither do I have hurry to return. 

I decided to record audio on my cell phone while driving. Because I didn’t exactly remember how I drive in last 15 min because my whole mind was only in speaking.

As soon as I finished the recording, I saw a road accident. It was dark on highway and A bike was around 200 meters ahead of me, a car just passed by me @ 80-90 kmph speed and then I saw the biker start diverting from his lane and coming to car’s lane. For a fraction of second I just couldn’t realize that it’s really happing and "is he a fool?". What the hell is he doing without looking behind and within seconds, the car hit the bike and from behind I couldn’t see bike and the biker. I thought he must have been mashed under the car. 

I was the only other person than these two drivers there. The car driver was so afraid that he was not coming out. I thought of calling Police then realized if they came, they would ask me also for my bike papers. Then I thought why we need them; first we need ambulance. Then I thought let's see the condition of the biker first. The Biker was in front of car bumper and was not hurt. Long story cut short (Pet dialogue of Mr. Mittal), The driver was so drunk that when he saw the car, his mind didn’t react and so did not fall on the ground. Instead of that he fell on car bonnet and it was quite smooth for his bump and so he didn’t receive any injury and I must say it was the car's (Maruti SX4) braking system which stopped the car at once and jammed it within 4-5 meter running at a fairly high speed. Everybody went home happily. 

I got a 3-star hotel in an off-season price with some bargain. I had to hide my Old monk as I had told him that I do not have much money (and what he would think if he see me purchasing and taking-in the purchase that “the boy do not have enough money for paying full hotel rent but have enough for drink”.) 

I washed my jacket here. Oh my god, I made a pond of mud in bathroom. 

Happy Old Monk. Thanks for being cheap. 

Day Summary: Kakinada to Chilakaluripet, Andhra Pradesh 300 km on NH 5 and X SH 

 Hotel rent 350 

 

Sunday, December 26, 2010 

 Day 17: Chilakaluripet, Andhra Pradesh to Pedda pariya 

I thought I would reach Chennai today but I drove real slow and Suddenly NH 5 became beautiful and maintained. Then I realized that I need to arrange money as I had spent most of my money in Kakinada and suddenly the day became worse for me till the night where I stopped on a Dhaba (food joint for truck drivers) after driving straight 200 km nonstop.

Luckily it was a North Indian food Dhaba and the owner himself was from Haryana. I was a bit relaxed that now I can speak My language - Hindi words from my mouth and by imaging the taste of food of my motherland. It was around 10 days since I ate proper North Indian food although I had enjoyed every type of vegetarian food. But getting homeland taste after so long was so good. 

And after 5 days I was talking in Hindi and people were understanding very quickly what I am saying (of course they are from Hindi language region). Anyway, the Dhaba was crowded with lots of north truck drivers. I started drinking my own and they were curious and wanted a chance to have talk to me. Usually, I avoid any such type of public appearance, but its 3-4 peg’s effect and I heard about some Rajasthani Hotel 10-12 km far from here. I asked about the address and soon (I guess within 5 min) I was surrounded by around 15 truck drivers and the Dhaba owner himself. If you are reading this blog, you know what they ask and what I replied. I got comment which I take as a compliment “Ya we saw you there on highway passing our truck. Actually we thought that it might be some foreigner. Then he cleared his stand “actually we identified that the bike is from Rajasthan but your face was covered with helmet so we couldn't identified you. And I made them happy by saying that I must be a truck driver in my previous birth because I love driving on highways. 

They suggested to me that there isno parking problem here so I could stay here. But they had a fleet of 10 trucks together to park so they needed big space and would leave now. Owner was also happy that I stay there. But when I asked about money, he said in his typical Haryanvi tone- “Are bhai paise na chahiye, tu eise hi ruk (Just stay here, I don’t want any money)”.

It was a experience of night life at this Dhaba. He parked my bike himself, covered me at night with bed sheet while I was sleeping, prepared special tea himself (not by Dhaba worker) and was very insisting  on me to stay till 9 Am so that I can take a freshwater bath on tube well. Funny part happened when I picked the water bottle (such type of places, If you ask for washroom, you make a fool of yourself). So I just asked “where is the bottle” and got a straight answer “bhatti ke piche se le le, peeche mat jana, side me chala ja”. 

It was dark, going for natures-call. It was a bit muddy and grassy (embarrassing thing was that it was not far from highway, only 10 meter but suggested by the owner’s brother). When I was finding my way to sit, I get a call from dark “udher mat ja, ittku aaja” (don’t go there, come this side) and this was the owner shitting very relaxed. So now I had a company of the owner while shitting. 

These two brothers manage 24 hours Dhaba. When the elder went to sleep, I had company of the younger. And before he went for sleep, he awakened the elder and also made me a special tea and offered some biscuits. Both brothers were nice to me and when I said that I want to go at early sunrise they were insisting on me to stay till 9-10 am take a bath with fresh bore well water but I wanted to see sun rise first time while driving on this trip. 

It was my first sponsorship, I guess. Free stay, tea and complimentary breakfast but I don’t like much sponsorship as it suffocates me. I want to remain free as I am and this could be also one of the reasons that I run away from Dhaba because if I would stay more, he wouldn’t charge me for anything, not for food and nor for liquor. So, it was better to leave. 

Day Summary: Chilakaluripet, Andhra Pradesh to some Dhabanear Pedda pariya 

250 km on NH 5, Hotel Rent: Nil

 

Sunday, December 27, 2010 

Day 18: Pedda pariya to Villupuram, Tamil Nadu 

My only Sunrise in this whole tour so far, otherwise all I used to see was Sunsets. 

Chennai was only 100 km and I passed through it vertically with single direction in 30 min than I headed towards Madurai on NH 45. It was the best highway on entire trip, well maintained and beautiful; I never saw so many colors of flower on a road-divider. 

As I couldn’t sleep well because of mosquitoes at Dhaba, I couldn’t drive more (although I carry mosquito (Odomos) repellent, but it was in bag which I gave to Dhaba owner's custody and I did’t want to bother him again) and I stopped on Villupuram at 12 pm, small town and ya I took breakfast 2 times after crossing Chennai. 

 “We welcome you on your arrival”. How much do you care for these sign board? I read them every day.

In south, one more thing I noticed is that there is no sign board for welcoming and goodbyes. It might be a cost saving from government and only a lonely driver can understand how it feels when somebody welcomes you on your arrival on the city even though it’s a few words on board. I never longed for such welcome sign board in my life before. Now I am missing them here. 

I knew it's a small town so I can safely choose best hotel of town. Yet it will be affordable to me (otherwise I do not dare to enter in a good-looking hotel in big cities). 

I got decent room in just 3.5 $ (150 Rupees) and my goodness room was small but with a neat and clean bed sheet and I have never seen a hotel so cheap with intercom facility. I guess that must have been off season for them. 

Outside the window, I saw a pond with lots of coconut trees, temple and sound of Vedic chanting, just like the scene I saw in a famous TV serial “Bharat Ek KhOJ”.  - A Must See.

After 15 min, got a call from reception uncle asking me that weather I am alone or with somebody and when I confirmed that I am alone he said “Sir the rent is only 120 Rs not 150 for single person. We will give you back the 30 Rs tomorrow with your deposit." This type of honesty was unexpected within travel industry, but I guess this is my Delhi effect that has made me so amazed upon this. Any way I drank and slept well. 

Day Summary: Dhaba, Pedda Pariya to Viluppuram, Tamilnadu, km 300 via NH 5 and NH 45 

Room rent 120 

 

Monday, December 27, 2010 

Day 19: Viluppuram, Tamil Nadu to Dindigul, Tamilnadu 

I started on my usual time (10 am). The highway, as I am seeing since yesterday, is beautiful. I am seeing that since I enter into the south India, Highways are good and maintained. Credit card are accepted here everywhere without getting suspicious on the card holder. In North they behave like you have stolen this card from somebody. Are south Indians being more sincere, corruption level might be low (Khair bach ke kaha jaoge, India is one nation and hum North Indians Dheere Dheere tumhe bhi corrupt bana hi denge). 

I wanted to leave this beautiful highway and to go through country side roads to have closer look into the life of this region but I couldn’t go for two reasons. One, I was left with one or two days money so I better be going to my target of Kanyakumari and second thing was that when you have urge to reach the destination, you almost become incapable of enjoying the route. 

In a city life, we always have a hurry to reach somewhere, office to home, home to office, etc. and we stop enjoying the life. It might sound philosophy but it’s what I felt in this trip and in this grip also. 

My Eicher road map-book was not updated, and it made me travel long. It showed the NH 45 goes to Madurai via Dindigul only while there was direct route from Tiruchirappalli. Google Map is updated with new direct highway no. NH 45B from Tiruchirappalli to Madurai is shown.  

I saw too many people since Chennai in religious cross-country walk on foot (Pad-Yatra). Till Villupuram, most of the men and women were wearing red cloth and after Tiruchirappalli, most of the people wearing black. I stopped by and interviewed one person, Mr. Srinivasan. It was nice talking to him and his friend. They were going to Sabarimala, Kerala, which is 700 km from Chennai. They traveled around 30-35 km daily. 

 (Sirf religion ya love hi kisi ko ye Jnoon de sekta hai, mai to sirf bhatak raha hu.) 

Maggie Story: Dindigul is not a small town as I expected. Getting cheap room was a bit difficult but luckily, I found one at 200 Rs and because I ate some crap on the city entrance road, I didn’t feel hungry so I planned to skip dinner. 

While watching TV I saw the Maggie noodles Ad. and suddenly I felt a strong urge to eating Maggie. I planned to get one prepared for me. I bought Maggie, chilly and onions (Onions they are costly now so usually not available on cheap places of eating where I planned to cook Maggie). I went to roadside Dhaba and tea maker and to my surprise, nobody wanted to cooperate in cooking Maggie. Then I decided to try on highway. I hit one strange highway around 10 pm and there too I could get no help. 

I figured out that most of them excusing for do not having pot for making Maggie. I became crazy and decided to buy one. Although it was late but luckily, I got help to buy one with direction of a shop lady from whom I bought salt. It was only 25 Rs for a pot there. Then again, I went to the same shops where I tried earlier, but they were still not willing. I was frustrated but I kept trying and then a saw an old lady on tea stall, I asked her, and she instantly agreed for making it. 

She made a delicious one (or may be after so much hard work to get this, it tasted delicious). I felt apologetic that I thought that she has good business sense of making money while there was no customer on that tea stall. But she didn’t take any extra money from me except tea. 

I insisted her to take at least some money for fuel etc. but she didn’t except. It was like feeding to her child only. I planned to buy some gift for her for the next day, before leaving the town but as usual I was so lazy in the morning that I left without giving her anything. Such an xxxx I am.  

In the remaining trip I always kept Maggie, onions and chilies. And whenever I felt hungry, I stopped by any tea-stall and got it cooked for me till Mumbai. (After Mumbai I did not have any problem with taste) and no body charged me for that, even those who looked very poor by cloths etc. (I guess they are rich by heart and were happy to help). 

Day summary: Villupuram, Tamil Nadu to Dindigul, Tamil Nadu, 260 km on NH 45 Room rent 200 

 

Tuesday, December 28, 2010 

Day 20: Dindigul, Tamil Nadu to Nagercoil, Tamil Nadu

So today I would be reaching the farthest destination, the Kanyakumari after that my return will start. 

The longest lift: While driving on highway, I usually give lift to the locals; I don’t think it's dangerous and if it is then it has become adventurous for me. Most of the people asked for next nearby village so it is usually 10-15 km but today I gave lift to a very poor man, and he traveled with me 150 km. 

Obviously we didn’t know each other’s language, so every time I try to ask him where he wanted to go, he signed me to proceed further. Ultimately, I stopped on a Dhaba so that I can take help of the Dhaba owner to understand where this man wants to go. We took some tea and unfortunately Dhaba people also didn’t know single word of English or Hindi. 

Finally, when I crossed one major city I become sure that this person doesn’t know where he is going. I stopped nearby a truck driver and told him that this person sitting behind me since last 150 km and I don’t know where to drop him. The truck driver talked to him, and I doubt was right, it seems that the man wanted to be adopted by me and he will be like my servant for as long as I want (I myself was in a poor condition). So now with some conversation via the truck driver, I decided to take a U-turn and dropped him 5 km back at that big city juncture road. While I bid him goodbye, he begged for some money. He was really looking poor. When I gave him 10 Rs, he was touching my feet. So much poverty.  

The Machine city: (a Must-See view) 

The road was smooth and after dropping him I covered a good distance and suddenly, before 25 km to Kanyakumari, I saw lot of wind mills. As I proceeded further, their numbers kept increasing. At first I count 10, then 20, no its must be 50 and still the numbers kept increasing. These giant windmills standing against the coconut trees seemed like making fun of them. I felt that I am entering into a machine city of movie “The matrix”.  

I reached Kanyakumari at 4 pm. Too much tourists, too much costly. The room rent itself was 2000 to 3000 Rs.  

I just made 2 rounds along the cost and bid Goodbye to Kanyakumari, and I enjoyed my saving with a Blender’s pride that day.  

It almost looked totally different when I started driving along this west coast of India. People, culture, girls all were different from Tamilnadu, although I was still in Tamilnadu state. I searched for the next town and very soon I found one cheap lodge with Hindi speaking typical Malayalam owner in Nagercoil.

Good Night 

Day summary: Dindigul, Tamilnadu to Nagercoil, Tamil Nadu 300 km via NH 7, NH 47 Hotel rent 200 rs 

 

Tuesday, December 29, 2010 

Day 21: Nagercoil, Tamil Nadu to Ernakulam, Kerala 

Wake up bit early and packed my stuff. Dinesh, 15-year-old bell-boy (who was bought here 4 years before by Lodge owner (like a bounded labor) from Delhi and the owner himself gave me flag-off.. 

It feels nice to have a goodbye from them.  

It’s beautiful here, compare to the roadside of Tamilnadu through which I drove. I wasn’t able to go inside roads of Tamilnadu as I was in bit hurry to reach Kanyakumari and I was very short of money. I was using my credit card as much as possible and here in south, I am quite successful. Even I increased my fuel reserve by keeping to extra one-liter bottles which felicitate me to drive long and find only card accepting petrol pumps and its helpful to the people who got empty on highway. Some Petrol pumps agree to pay me 100 Rs cash while charging 100 Rs more in card. This way my whole day eating was covered. Some don’t accept it though.  

The Marriage: - when you drive slowly, you can look around and can find many things which you otherwise miss. Like I noticed a convoy of cars of marriage behind me and they stopped along a roadside Church. I decided to attend marriage. After all, its a Malayali Christian wedding, a thing I never had seen before. I asked permission by an old close relative and then I attended the function for around 2 hours, although I couldn’t understand what the priest was saying. But I was surrounded by beautiful Malayalam girls all dressed up for marriage. There is some mystic quality that attracts me to them. I don’t know when I could have a chance to live in any such typical village and more importantly before they are contaminated by globalization.  

Sex ratio: - Females are too many here in Kerala comparing to any part of India. Every bust stop, crossing, public place etc. is full of group of sexy Malayalam women. It really felt good to have beautiful road scenery. My speed reduced to 30-40 kmph on whole highway as I was really enjoying the beauty.  

Lost but rescued by Google maps (Only once): To avoid NH and to go through the small towns and villages, I took a diversion on a state highway. I kept going and going but when I saw My Eicher road map, it was blank on that region. My policy is not to turn back and ask (kind of challenge to myself, as much as possible). I thought this road will lead to at least some town, where I can check the name and will find on my road map. After around 30 km drive, I got to a town with a bank branch there and hence the name of town in English, but my road map was still blank. I plugged-in my data card and although signal was weak, Google maps showed even the statue by which I was sitting in a restaurant. Salute to Google and I made my directions to go back to National Highway (as state highways are bad here). I do not have compass with me. I usually drive with my direction sense. After driving another 10-15 km, I got myself on dead end with an elephant Santuary. Locals were curious, almost staring at me, but I didn’t ask anybody and acted to cover-up my natural face expression that I am lost. With utmost confident I open my laptop and data card, and there were no signals at all to open the Google maps even on a slower speed. Finally I simply took a U-turn and got back to highway by asking directions to people hee hee hee (what a shameful defeat).  

Finally, I got the rain also. It was bit hot since I entered in Tamilnadu but I didn’t open my heavy jacket as I didn’t have space to put it in. Although I have raincoat, but it’s not so good. It’s good only for 10-15 minutes in rain, then I stopped and watched the rain, standing in a shade. All in all, I saw all three weathers in this trip.  

Day Summary: Nagercoil, Tamil Nadu to Ernakulam, Kerala  310 km via NH 47, Some SHs 

Hotel Rent at Ernakulam, Kerala 325 (8 $) 

 

Thursday, December 30, 2010 

Day 22: Ernakulam, Kerala to Calicut, Kerala  

Since morning, I was not in a mood to drive. Just wanted to stay there but the room rent was bit high on my average so it was a must to get out of there. Ernakulum is a much-planned city. That remind me of Navi-Mumbai. It’s big tourist destination, so it's costly too. 

I got out the city and stopped on a typical Kerala food joint and tasted different type of Pakoras. Banana Pakora was too heavy for stomach. A beautiful young couple, traditionally dressed up, was eating there that made this restaurant elegant and unforgettable for me.  

I stopped for quick check on bike, just after 25 km of city and it took only 20 Rs. (Actually not being in mood to drive, I was just exploiting all the excuses for not to drive). One can find lots of bull mechanic here on roadside in Kerala.  

Again, took a wrong turn and left the NH. It's good, isn't it? I got on a quite road (since I entered in Kerala, I found that the highway is urbanized, and I didn’t get the pleasure of being alone on road). 

I stopped by at an Ice-cream parlor on the foothills and ate whole 1.2-liter family pack of ice cream in 1.5 hours (I told you already that I didn’t want to drive today). 

I heard some sound in bike by the afternoon. It came and went and made me worried. (I think she used to get angry whenever touched by any new mechanic). At last, I figured out that only the chain cover welding broke down and chain cover touching the moving was making that sound.  

Learning: - Remove cover of spark plug while doing electric welding on bike directly. It is safety practice which I learnt while my getting silencer hook welding repaired near Ranchi. The guy here (near Calicut) was afraid of welding on chain cover and wanted to remove it from bike than to weld. I assured him and got the cover of spark plug out. He took only 10 Rs.  

Beautiful sceneries roadside whenever road came close to sea. Many time I saw a joint of sea to river that’s full of coconut trees and there are good tourist resorts along the way. I reached by 10 pm on outskirts of Calicut and got a cheap lodge here. 

Good night 

Day Summary: Ernakulam, Kerala to Calicut, Kerala, 200 km via NH 17, Room rent 200 rs 

 

Friday, December 31, 2010 

Day 23: Calicut, Kerala to Kasaragod, Kerala  

After leaving Calicut, I stopped by a departmental store to buy batteries. Billing girl was looking very nice. She gave me few cookies in lieu of change and I offered her half of them. I think that made a good impression on her because she left her place and was on the door, seeing me off when I was kicking my bike. I always want to establish a good image of bull bikers so that we can get help on such long trip because of a good image. 

There was peculiar smell at many places along the seaside, must be of fishes. It makes me like puking and I don’t know how to control. Sometimes I stopped breathing and sometime accelerated the bike, but the whole day I suffered by this smell until I reached Mahi (a Portuguese colony, still comes under Pondicherry). I know most of the people will be surprised that this town is all isolated from its union Pondicherry by at last 1000 km. 

In Kerala liquor shop are government controlled like Delhi but here in Mahi it’s like a duty-free shop, like on international airports and open bar on roadside. There was one more small town which looked like typical fisherman colony (I forget the name).  

I just drove along the coast and never went to beach but road itself took me to the seashore. I must have stopped and watched the sea for about an hour. Then again, I started.  

I reached at 7 pm in a big, old hotel and rent was low, so I stayed. And that night I finalized my route of return via Belgaum to NH 7 (First time finalized the route) and as I knew that whenever I plan it won’t happen. I got an interview call from Mumbai for opportunity for Egypt. I had to reach there by 3rd of January. somehow I sensed that I will get the job while finishing the tour, that’s why I was carrying My resume, Interview dress and a cloth Iron was justified. Anyway, that was a 'happy New Year' to me. 

Day summary: From Calicut, Kerala to Kasaragod, Kerala, 200 km on NH 17, Rent 150

 

 

Saturday, January 1, 2011 

Day 24 Kasaragod, Kerala to Kudal (near Goa) 

When you must complete 1000 km in 2 days, you just drive and drive. The tour was over and now this was a rush hour to reach Mumbai by 3^rd. Soon I reached the Honavar. I was here in 2008 with Girish on Bangalore to Goa trip. So now I knew the road condition. I drove till I entered Goa, then had a lunch and crossed Panji (huge rush on road started, as new year festival ends and people returning back towards Mumbai). I didn’t try to get room here. I crossed Goa and then stayed in a three star (AC Room) with luxury in just 300 rs because it was now off-season for him. 

Day Summary: From Kasaragod, Kerala to Kudal (near Goa) 500 km on NH 17 

Sunil Lodge 300 Rs + 100 rs food (Most expensive one time meal)

 

 

Sunday, January 2, 2011 

Day 25: Kudal (near Goa) to Mumbai 

Stopped by a middle-aged couple driving in a van, just wanted to check from where I am coming. Offered me a stay at their town but I had to reach Mumbai, So I apologized to them. 

First time saw bikers (3-4) and girls on bike (probably returning from Goa to Mumbai). Didn’t have interaction except one asked me about the route (I was first surprised that why they are not carrying map with them, then realized that there are on just from Goa to Mumbai so really didn’t need that). Met with heavy traffic-jam 2-3 times (thanks I am on two-wheeler). Reached at Ranjeet’s home at 11.30PM. Mr. and Mrs. Ranjeet both were eagerly waiting for me. I hate when I make people wait for me and that’s why I hated the Jam on NH 4B. 

Day Summary: Kudal (near Goa) to Mumbai 450 km on NH 17 and NH 4B 

 

Monday, January 3, 2011 

Day 29: Mumbai to Dhule MH 

My trip started again, Enjoyed one wonderful view, 100 km before Dhule. (A must see) 

Had a couple of beer watching it (its 6-7 hills in line, like shown in desert of Mummy Movie, abbreviated on top by wind, I don’t know what it said.)  

Dhule is small and typical Marathi region town. Since I entered in Maharashtra, no problem for breakfast since Vada-Pao and Poha is my favorite. The way Poha is made here is original in taste. Poha is now available in Jaipur also but it’s just like being an Indian Pizza. I got remembrance of my friend Rajendra and made a call to him. He suggested opening a shop here if I like so much here. The language, Marathi, he will teach me. 

Day Summary: - From Mumbai to Dhule MH Distance 320 KM on NH 3, Room Rent 150 

 

Monday, January 4, 2011 

Day 30: Dhule to Sendhwa, Madhya Pradesh  

It was a Boring and dull day. Four lane works was in progress so lots of diversions. Nothing special. It was quite Veeran (Lonely Planet) for a person who traveled out of Kerala and Mumbai few days before. Shanti he shanti hai. (Peace)  

Again, best room of lodge is a bargain for me 200 Rs. Big and well-furnished room with TV but one thing is now common since Dhule that is frequent power cut in the region.

Petrol hand-pump: - first time I had seen this. It was driven by manually rotating the pump like hand mill for sugarcane. The area is backward. May be more than Orissa or there is a tie. 

Day Summary: - Dhule, Maharashtra, India to Sendhwa, Madhya Pradesh, India 

KM 100 on NH 3 Room rent 200 

 

Saturday, January 8, 2011 

Day 31: Sendhwa, Madhya Pradesh, India to Ratlam, Madhya Pradesh, India  

In a mood of Masti, I stopped many times, weighed my bike and myself on a truck weighing machine. I weigh to total 245 kg with my bag and luggage and my bike weigh 180 kg. Rate was 20 Rs for trucks weighing. The boy didn’t want any money from me, but I insisted him to take 10 Rs. 

Before Neemach, I made a short-cut by leaving NH 3 and to get NH 17. I guess all trucks do that to get a save on distance because surprisingly I found many trucks in this interior road. The road was bad, and the interior villagers were really living in abject poverty. When road was passing through hill, on a top of hill, two truck had collided and due to this, remaining trucks were stand-still. No room left to pass. 4-5 trucks were there, and their drivers and co-drivers were now relaxing and passing the time like picnic. Some were laying under trees, some were playing cards etc. I guess they had called for a crane and until it arrived, they couldn’t really do anything but wait.   

The lesson learnt for me was that they were not panicked like we city people use to get even though we know that we can’t do anything but wait. "Either change the things or accepts the things and relax." 

Day Summary: Sendhwa, Madhya Pradesh, India to Ratlam, Madhya Pradesh, India 

225 km on NH 3 and SH 31 

 

Sunday, January 9, 2011 

 Day 32 Ratlam, Madhya Pradesh, to Malhargarh, Madhya Pradesh 

The hotel in Ratlam was not so good but okay. The only thing I noticed here was that on the restaurant (25 rs for Dal, rice, 4 chapati and sabji). There was written that “you would be fined for 11 rs if you leave behind anything in your food plate”. I like it and endorse it. We were at home cultured not to leave food in plate and it’s really daring to put a fine on the sake of your business. 

Day Summary: Ratlam, Madhya Pradesh, India to Malhargarh, Madhya Pradesh 

125 km on NH 79 and SH 31 

 

Monday, January 10, 2011 

Day 33: Malhargarh, Madhya Pradesh To Jaipur, Rajasthan  

(Nothing feels like coming back to HOME) 

Woke up early in the morning and started the bike without getting fresh. Not a single penny in my pocket. My first target was nearby ATM. It was quite cold while driving. 2nd time I saw the sunrise and I was hopeful that I will reach my home by evening. Didn’t want to stay anywhere else. After getting money at nearby town ATM, the remaining problem was to get fresh on a decent place and second thing is to enter Rajasthan border without being cought by police like a criminal (Throughout in my tour, I had always been afraid of police only, never thought of any criminal). 

My so far life experience is bad with Rajasthan police. They will stop you and will start asking you about yourself and Bike-papers etc. and it will continue till they prove you as a criminal of some big crime. Then they not only want money but also lots of buttering and begging for life. It’s really humiliating. Thank God, My god father were on road again, the trucks. Whenever I crossed, the police had attention on them only as they were the big fish. 

I do remember in 2007, when I was entering in Rajasthan. it was an open bribe system like toll at NH 8 while on my tour from Bangalore to Delhi, and nothing was different on this highway as I entered in Rajasthan. Police van was standing on roadside and 3-4 police constables taking money from each truck passing by and obviously they ignored me. 

I stopped at a nearby tea stall and just inquired that how much they take per truck. The shop owner was so furious on police and with slang and lots of bad words he said something which means “its unpredictable, some time as low as 50 and sometime even 5000 Rs for single truck. Depends on when their stomach fills. This is the image of police here. I somehow connect this same as mosquitoes in animal planet. 

Nearby Chittorgarh, I finished my second concern of getting fresh. Good Dhaba, unlimited food (1 curry, Dal, roti, rice) with unlimited butter milk in just 35 Rs. During My last trip too, I got good healthy food in this region.  

The rest drive was just driving to the finish. Only one near mishap happened with me when a herd of goats suddenly jumped from divider and came on road. The divider had lots of big grass and trees so I could not see other side of the road and that langya (Cattle herd owner) pushed the goats without warning the other side. I applied all my breaks and so did the truck driver behind me. Thank God Goats stopped before my line of driving (they were intelligent than their owner). Guys please note down this near miss and be careful while driving. I drove almost 7000 km without a single mishap but somehow, it’s difficult to drive on over Indian roads with such unforeseen conditions. It made me remember the accident of Delhi ex CM Sahib Singh Verma’s accident on NH 8 while some cyclists come suddenly in front of his car from opposite lane. 

I reached home at evening and told that I am just coming from Delhi. :)

Day Summary: Malhargarh, Madhya Pradesh to Jaipur Rajasthan, 400km on NH 79 and NH 8 

END of TRIP

Let’s see when I can hit the road again, this time Punjab and above. 

“Mujh ko kadam kadam pe bhatekne do waizon ,Tum apna karobar karo, main nashe mei hu”